Tony and Eddy's trip to London
Tony was always passionate about the way food and wine transformed peoples' experience, especially bringing friends and colleagues together to make events or celebrations memorable. In any setting he was always thinking and looking about him to offer friendship, ideas and opportunities. I remember many such instances: In 1994, I had been appointe...
Holly Shamask An elder sibling is there from the moment you are born and for me a lifetime of love followed. Tony was a loving , gentle, creative, intelligent and courageous. A day spent with him was always fun, I miss him and his hugs.
Julian Fenwick Tony as young scholar. He loved reading all his life.
Holly Shamask Tony pre chef days in Melbourne!
Holly Shamask Big Brother! With me and Auntie Madeline at Jill's wedding. With Jill! With John outside 20 Gellibrand Street, Colac.
Holly Shamask We felt like twins and sometimes looked identical, but Tony was more outgoing, more generous, the bon vivant ! I was more introverted and shy. He wanted me to be a hostess at Kinsela's - our cousin Louise did a much better job of it!
Holly Shamask Look alikes!
Holly Shamask Tony with his precious kids! Sido at Berowra Waters, Sido and Jordie also at BW, Jordie with Tony in France,Lily and Eddie celebrating Tony's birthday in Woollahra.
Christopher Hayes A decade or so ago I was approached to pen a book about the 20 influential chefs who formed, or were forming, modern Australian cuisine. The first name that came to mind was Tony Bilson. I was too young to have experienced his early days in Melbourne at La Pomme d'Or in Camberwell or Lygon Street's Albion Hotel. Indeed, I’d either forgotten or had never heard of that part of his history until years later long after I dined at Tony’s Bon Gout on Elizabeth Street, Sydney at a time when I wore a suit and spent three years qualifying for my ACA. I’d already started on my life’s quest for the greatest food and wine I could consume in one lifetime. His modern sensibility of French gastronomy was amazing for this 21-year-old who’d taken himself to the spinning Summit Restaurant for his 18th birthday. It cost me 10% of my first year’s gross weekly wage, and you could BYO. Among prime ministers (I remember thanking Gough Whitlam for not sending me to Viet Nam) and the hierarchy of Sydney’s business world, I think Tony and partner Gay were fascinated by this very young bloke who brought serious bottles of wine to his restaurant. We met with Tony plonking himself down saying “I’m Tony Bilson” and proceeding to share a serious portion of my bottle of the now legendary 1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 Hunter Burgundy. At one point he told me of his plans for a restaurant at Berowra Waters which opened to coincide with my move back to Terrigal, making it relatively so close I became a regular. Hilarious nights finishing over half bottles of fabulous Yalumba Old Sweet White – a recently released fortified wine from ancient stocks of partly unknown white grape varieties. Tony had instructed his staff to serve him no more than three glasses each night. I remember Michael McMahon (Catalina) refusing him saying he’d threatened to sack him if he gave him another. Tony responded with “I’ll sack you if you don’t”. The old tea-house building was converted to a glass-fronted riverside diner with no equal in Australia at that time … a restaurant that lives in deserved legend. Tony and Gay parted ways in the early eighties and, in partnership with Leon Fink, Tony converted the old Kinsela’s funeral parlour on Taylor Square into a multi-faceted diner/bar/theatre. Kinsela’s was the Mecca for fine food and fun … dining with a sense of humour. This was the era when a new generation of chefs – Neil Perry at Barrenjoey House and Peter Doyle at Reflections both in Palm Beach, brother Greg Doyle at Rogues and Damien Pignolet at Claude’s – were turning out serious modern food much influenced by Tony’s ground-breaking French culinary progressiveness. In 1981 Tony and I were part of the “younger generation” (with fellow-chef Patric Juillet and winemaker Brian Croser) at Len Evans 50th birthday dinner showcasing 20 vintages of Chateau Petrus back to 1919. Tony was a regular at fine wine dinners at Bulletin Place hosted by Len and, later, myself. First Growth Bordeaux comparisons back to 1945 and DRC horizontal/verticals of similar vintages were dinners now of legend. Tony enjoyed those dinners and loved more voicing his opinion of both wine and food. No sooner had the Bi-Centenary passed in 1988 than the eponymous Bilsons opened where the venerable Quay Restaurant resides. My Hayes Fine Wines across a small patch of Circular Quay supplied much of the fine vintage wines for the list. His next chapter was Fine Bouche in East Sydney, another fine-diner that allowed BYO, a boon for those who had fine cellars. One rather special wine lunch I refused to allow the pompous French waiter to decant our wine after he’d virtually spoiled a 1949 Krug. Said waiter complained to Tony who came out and, seeing me decanting our wines, said “leave him to it, he knows more about wine than you will ever know”. A great compliment from Tony ... thank you. The role-call of fine restaurants - The Treasury at Hotel InterContinental, the multimillion-dollar Ampersand at Darling Harbour, and Canard in Double Bay in a space where I’d previously had Hazi’s Wine Bar – covered the next decade. There were other gigs such as a fish place at La Perouse he briefly consulted for, and a wine bar at Circular Quay, but they have blurred in memory. We both consulted for Arena at Fox Studios (Tony on food, me on wine) where his contract included a “glass of wine” each service which lead to humorous discussions about how big a glass of wine would be appropriate. His last high-profile restaurant was resurrecting the Bilson's name at the Radisson Blu Plaza on the corner of O'Connell and Pitt Streets where he again scored three hats in the Good Food Guide between 2008 to 2011. It seemed immediately after this that his Facebook page told of deteriorating health, but he often liked and commented on my posts, remaining ever-present in my life. An extremely intelligent and well-educated man beyond food and wine, he was always great company, and good fun. He will be missed by many, including myself.
Holly Shamask With Magi Caumon at a dinner he prepared at her home in Paris. In hospital, a few months before he died, Tony told me his one regret was that he would not be able to make another trip to France. Magi and her husband Patrice are dear friends and were wonderful hosts to Tony on each of his trips.
Amanda Bilson On our wedding day and Tony's 42nd birthday, one of the happiest days of my life. With Jordan, Sido, Rabbi Brasch - the Marriage Celebrant - and his wife.
Julian Fenwick Fine Bouche 1990 - 1994 Tony’s mantra was to make sure that diners had a glass of Champagne and bread as soon as they sat down. It staggered the orders and gave the kitchen time. The bread bit was easy, but Australian men still opted for a beer over Champagne to start. The food was classic Bilson French bistro of snapper quenelles, bouillabaisse, cassoulet, hare or venison, beef bordelaise, chicken demi-deuil, followed by passionfruit souffle, Lynelle’s amazing ice cream, or gratin of poached peaches with Champagne sabayon. Tripes Lyonnaise was a regular addition to the Friday lunch menu and sold well to the older male diners. It was also very cheap to make and so quite profitable, unlike some other dishes. At one-point Tony had just returned from a trip overseas where he discovered that he could buy Chinese caviar at about half the price of Russian caviar. Tony had a new mate who was ex Chinese military who could guarantee supply at a good price. Despite costing us about $45 to serve as an entrée, Tony insisted that people “need to try it” so it went on the menu at $15 with Tony telling us not to worry as we will make it up on dessert. Tony always enthusiastically wanted to share his experiences with others. Tony also trialled new dishes at Fine Bouche. Some like the Foie Gras ice cream never really took off, others like his confit of salmon with a pinot noir sauce became Bilson staples. The origins of this dish were in a humble domestic deep fryer turned down as low as possible so that the salmon fillet would cook very gently for about 15 minutes in the oil. I recently saw Luke Nguen do a version of this and it reminded me of just how influential Tony has been.
In September 2002 Eddy came to stay with us in London at the end of his travels around Europe. Tony was on a wine and culinary tour of France at the time and planned to wind up in London and head home together with Eddy. Tony arrived and his first nights with us were occupied visiting friends at fine dining restaurants around London. However, he an...
Julian Fenwick This was at the launch of Tony's book: Insatiable, My Life in the Kitchen. A fun night and a book that launched many conversations.
Diego Munoz I remember Tony in 2006 waiting for me for an interview at The Radisson where Bilson's was and where I started as Sous Chef with Manu leading the team, I left in 2007 to ElBulli and come back in 2008, then left in 2009 until Tony called me while I was at the Royal Mail Hotel with Dan Hunter and asked me to come back to get the restaurant it's 3rd hat back after the lost in 2009. I accepted the challenge and together with the amazing team on the photo full of talented people we got it back with 18/20 from Terry Durack in 2010, a little while after that we were closing down the restaurant. So much gratitude and respect for you Tony and all your family. Thanks a lot for every single opportunity. Lots of love Diego Munoz
Juno Gemes Tony Bilson was also an artist and a fisherman. When he and Amanda visited us on the Hawkesbury River - there were always plans afoot ! Once when they had no 1 - We dreamed up evenings of Poetry Recitals +Dinner so we as Paper Bark Press invited great Poets including David Malouf , Michael Palmer , Devin Johnson and Robert Adamson to read as part of SWF and Tony and Almanda laid on a special Poets dinner . The house was packed , Tony punctuated the readings with funny stories appearing with gorgeous food , Loverly wine and much pleasure . Great nights at No 1 . We did it for two years running . Those lucky to attend will not easily forget it . Tony also adored fishing and dreamed of catching a great Mullaway with Robert . At each visit - we would plot a fishing trip / talking up tides and times . I recall Tony saying - Juno if the fish are on and we can go out ring me - anytime really anytime - 3am no problem. Let's get out there ! The last fishing trip I remember - Bob prepared the rugs and the bait . The trip was weeks in the planning . Finally come the day Tony arrived bearing the most devine pate I have ever had and two pigeons - for a picnic on the boat . Time and tide right . We spent the afternoon very pleasantly on the river . There were a few catches but the mighty Dewey eluded us that day . But who cared - we had a great time philosophising and yarning , planning the next fishing adventure . Just being together with Tony was always a joy . 💘
Rosie Nice We have many wonderful memories of times spent with Tony from the advent of Kinselas onwards In particular as Tony and Peter White had back to back birthdays, they often had celebratory gatherings together with mutual friends - usually at Clareville- this one was in 2015 - I don’t think there were anything like enough candles on the cake - I guess they were just symbolic! Rosie Nice Nov 2020 Many moons ago Tony taught me how to cook Muscovy duck at his school at The Intercontinental but the little gem that he passed on to me at one of our joint celebrations was the simplest… “Pete, when serving fresh oysters just fill a spray bottle with water, add salt and spray on the assembled oyster tray.” So easy and so delicious… its as if they had just some out of the water…. Highly recommended. Peter White Nov 2020
Julian Fenwick Tony's Tarte Tatin was a perennial favourite
Eddy Bilson Tony not only had great relationships with chefs and artists but also with wine makers and viticulturists. He loved passing on his knowledge of wine to his children. Here is a photo of father and son at Phillip Shaw Winery in Orange.
Julian Fenwick Tony & Audrey always had a very special relationship. I love this photo taken at Lily's 30th in 2017
Julian Fenwick John, Jill and Tony were very close and John flew in for a weekend to see him in November 2019
For those who could not attend the funeral but wish to watch the service please visit the link below. https://www.funeralvideo.com.au/private/tony-bilson The service was officiated by Tony's nephew Julian Fenwick. The order of eulogies was as follows: Audrey Brandon - Acknowledgement of Country Jill Fenwick Gil Marsden (on behalf of John Bilson) ...
Tony has been a great friend of mine since the early seventies , we have shared many memories and shared friends all chefs as well the likes of Patrick Juillet and Testsuya and many others he came to the Hunter demonstrating his skills to most of all chefs and apprentices i remember the great chefs dinners at Rothbury the likes of Paul Bocuse, Jea...
Margot Hilton VALE TONY BILSON I’ve got rather confused memories of when I actually met Tony (whom we all called ‘Tones’) but think it must’ve been in or around 1980 when I clearly remember GB (Graeme Blundell to whom I was then married) coming home with a tale of how he’d bumped into Tony on Oxford Street Darlinghurst (they’d been at university together decades before) and how Tony had badgered him into going around with him to have a look at Kinsela’s, the funeral parlour which, with Tony’s help, Leon Fink was in the process of transforming into a hot Sydney night spot. I then met and became very close friends with Amanda and have crystal-clear memories of their wedding day with Amanda, simply breathtaking, in her white leather wedding dress, courtesy of Madam Lash of course. Be that as it may, GB didn’t actually start working at Kinsela’s as a theatrical agent provocateur until much later – probably around late 1985 or even 1986 – which would’ve been when the marvellous Balmain Boys Don’t Cry came to life: ‘Buckets’ Jackson as Minister for Corrective Services providing rib-tickling fodder for the news stories he generated with the then Wran Government’s Early Prisoner Release Scheme - for which all that was needed to qualify were large brown paper bags full of cash – fine entertainment indeed accompanied by Tony’s matchless fine dining in the Bistro or in the inner sanctum of what was still then called the ‘Funeral Parlour’… These were heady days with Tony in his bow tie and chef’s whites greeting all-comers at their tables – or cracking his whip on the back stairs after hours to let us know that for some of us, the time was fast approaching up… I was doing quite a lot of freelance journalism around this time and Tony was always the most co-operative and uncomplaining resource when it came to needing an off-the-cuff quote for a story – or indeed a story itself as what follows (which appeared in Reporter for ‘The Bulletin’ on 26 November 1991) can testify: “Diplomacy on a plate The world of our well-known chefs is indeed a strange and wonderful place. Prominent foodie Tony Bilson in early November 1991 found himself at the China World Hotel, Beijing, designing a dinner for 700 that they didn’t get to eat until the December. Invited by the Beijing Project to come up with a menu which realised its East-West friendship objectives in food (black quenelles with Chinese caviar, gingered stuffed duck’s neck with a saffron brioche, chocolate pud with Bayley’s H.J.T. Muscat), Bilson was oracular enough to arrive in China with two loaves of bread and one fish – a Tasmanian salmon wrapped in polystyrene which he claims to have got through customs by acting confused and saying it was stuffed. He cured it and served it in pancakes in the manner of Beijing Duck together with quail Bau (steamed dumplings) perfectly calculated to tickle the fancies of the Chinese press. Co-incident with Bilson’s exercise in culinary harmony, judges Eileen Ford (of the Eileen Ford Agency, New York) and Pierre Cardin (who apart from his fashion interests, also runs Maxim’s in Paris and Beijing) were also at the China World selecting the lucky lady who would be crowned All China Super Model of the Year. During the proceedings, Miss Taiwan was stripped of her title when she was found in her dressing room with a Caucasian while not wearing shoes.” © Margot Hilton Sydney 1991
Salut to a man who's rare Creative, engaging and debonnaire From Fine Bouche to Kinselas No frog has such savoir faire You made French Cuisine part of the decor and in english Tony rimes with yummy With Amanda, lord, what a pair Few have met such tender loving care Bon voyage, let's not despair Here's to Tony, cheers mon frere Patrick Benh...
Adam Wynn Tony being Anthony Sher being Richard III, note vegetable steamer crown. Well I miss him terribly already. I fist met Tony in 1982 an we became good friends somewhat instantly . Over the years wee collaborated on many wine and food events both here and in Japan, England and France. He was always so much fun with wide interests and knowledge all the while being a consummate professional . We had a ball.
What a pleasure it was to have been lucky enough to meet Tony. We enjoyed the opportunity of exchanging friendship through mutual business. Tony was not only an icon in the Industry he loved and gave so much to but also one of the true pioneers here in Australia. He was a true gentleman with impeccable manners and a delight to spend time with. ...
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Join MemoriesTony Bilson was a revered Australian chef, restaurateur and mentor as well as a much loved husband, father, brother, uncle and friend. Since his passing in January 2020 it has been evident just how many lives he influenced and special memories he created. Tony's family was hoping to host a large memorial party for Tony, however given the current pandemic this seems unlikely for the foreseeable fut... more
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